Chinese antiques return to exotic Himalayan fair
Tuesday, 12 November 2002, 20:30 IST
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SHIMLA: The merry tinkle of pony bells and the whistles of carpetbaggers from across the border are returning to the centuries old Lavi trade fair in the northern Indian hill state of Himachal Pradesh. Lavi literally means wool, and heaps of raw and spun wool are sold at the fair held on the bend of the Sutlej river. The fair that dates back to the 17th century got under way on Monday. This unique trade fair at Rampur Bushahr is held every autumn some 160 km north of the state capital. Chinese goods used to find their way freely into the fair since it started in 1681. But that was before 1962 when the India-China war took place. Now the tinkle of goods from China can be heard again. New Delhi reopened the 16,000-ft-high Shipki La pass in the mid-nineties along with some other passes along the sprawling Himalayas range that had been closed after the India-China war in 1962. "Today, although the Chinese don't really come on to the Indian side to trade, their goods have begun to make their way across the high pass, largely through Tibetan refugees in India and tribal Kinnauri folk who market it at the fair," says Arvind Shukla, a key state government official and chief organiser of the fair. "Tibetan refugees and local Kinnauri tribals trek across the Shipki La pass and often even enter China and procure the goods that are in great demand at the fair," Shukla told IANS. "Chinese artefacts such as jewellery, crockery, handicrafts, tea, herbs, heavy woollens and even bushy Yak tails are expected to register a rise at the Tibetan and Kinnauri stalls." Unofficially, the fair began last week and trading will continue a week after it ends on November 14. Says Yogender Makhaik, a resident of Rampur Bushahar: "What makes this fair unique is its old world charm. "Like always there is wool in plenty, but it is the Chinese goods that are drawing the crowds this time. Not the cheap electronic and plastic goods that have flooded world markets but the lesser known Chinese artefacts." There is a growing feeling that after years, slowly and steadily new life and colour is being injected into the exotic fair. Traders say the fair where 27 listed goods are being sold is drawing the largest crowds this year since the pass was reopened. Rampur Bushahr, on the banks of the river Sutlej, is the quintessential small, sleepy hamlet. But every year, during the fair, hill folk gather in large numbers as do people from neighbouring Indian states. In recent times, the fair has also been drawing more and more foreigners. Besides the re-entry of Chinese goods, a variety of other goods are also sold -- from raw and semi-finished wool like tweeds, shawls, blankets and prized pashmina shawls to dry fruit like almond and walnut, spices and even animals like sheep, goats and Tibetan horses. Organisers say total sales run into several millions of rupees. During the day, there's brisk trading and at night huge bonfires are lit and dancing, singing, drinking and merrymaking go on past midnight. The fair started during the reign of Kehar Singh in the 17th century. In 1681, war broke out between Ladakh and Tibet. The king of Rampur Bushahr was then on a pilgrimage to the Mansarovar lake in Tibet. On the way, he met the chief of the Tibetan army who asked for help. The king agreed and a treaty was signed between Tibet and Bushahr allowing traders from both sides to carry on business without paying tax. Soon trade soared and a fair had to be organised at Rampur Bushahr, which was thronged by merchants from China, Tibet and even from Central Asia.
Source: IANS
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